Myerson Photo Blog

Words and Deeds of Myerson Photo

Walkabout

Filed under: Tucson Photography
6:12 am on Thursday, March 27, 2008

One of the things I love best about Tucson is the fact that a short walk at lunchtime has such beautiful scenery. Yesterday the sun was shining, it was nice and warm, and Honeybee Canyon Park in Oro Valley was calling my name. I spent about 35 minutes in the park (and canyon that shares its name). I got a few nice images, I met a guy and his 4-year-old daughter out for a walk, I saw an owl nesting. Not a bad way to spend a lunch hour. I’ll probably go back one day next week at lunch as well.

Cholla
Owl

Rocky

If you’re in the area and want to hike and shoot around midday one day next week, please feel free to shoot me an email.

Keeping It Local

Filed under: Tucson Photography
2:15 pm on Monday, March 10, 2008

At our last Photo Meetup meeting, member Jim brought up a great point, and it’s one I think bears repeating here. The discussion was about various resources for photography gear research. I mentioned that on more than one occasion I’ve spent time at Greg’s Camera here in Tucson, but money at B&H. It’s hard not to… the guys at Greg’s have the smarts, but the guys at B&H have the discounts.

Jim made the point that people who do what I’ve done will ultimately spell the demise for small retailers like Greg’s. I know Jim wasn’t picking on me personally (or at least I hope not… right Jim? Right?), but I certainly have taken his point to heart.

Our photo meetup group, and the other camera clubs in and around Tucson, represent a good size batch of local photographers. If we’re not championing the cause of local support, who will? It would be a real shame to lose the few remaining camera stores we have in Tucson. Photographers need gear, local photography stores need customers. It’s a win-win, but only if we choose to make it so.

I plan to buy another speedlight or two this year (maybe even this month). Without having done the research yet, I’m willing to bet that I’d save about $40 buying at B&H. As a NAPP member, there’s no shipping charge at B&H, so it’s not like that becomes a pricing factor. So the question is whether I feel I get $40 worth of benefit by buying locally.

I’d have to say that I do.

I’ve taken advantage of their advice and expertise, which is worth something. But more than that, I just plain like having them around. They’re close to home, they’re available when I need them (like that day before a big family portrait shoot when I needed a new lens or that time I desperately needed a sensor cleaning kit), and most importantly, they were patient with me when I didn’t have a clue what I needed back in the beginning.

It’s great to spend time in your local camera store, but it’s even better to spend some money there too.

Chasing The Dream

Filed under: Uncategorized
11:13 am on Monday, March 10, 2008

I just wanted to post a big thank you to everyone who nominated me for the Chase Jarvis ASMP contest. I didn’t win the big prize, but I was so pleased to read all of the fine comments you guys left for me in the nominations. I was truly humbled by your kindness, and I want you all to know that I’m always there to back you guys up as well, as you all did for me.

Much love and thanks.

Photoshop Tutorial: DIY Revolutionary

Filed under: Tutorials
1:45 pm on Friday, March 7, 2008

Time for another photoshop graffiti tutorial. This time, lets look at how to turn yourself or a loved one into a 60’s socialist revolutionary icon, a la Che Guevara.

Lets dive right in. First off, we’ll need a few photos. I’ll be using this friendly face and wood fence background, both from my iStockphoto portfolio.

Wood Fence

To begin, we’ll need to do some preparation work on the photo of the man. Just as with our previous graffiti tutorial, we’re going to want to have our graffiti look like it was stenciled on and spray painted. To do that, we’ll have to adjust the face down to one color. Photoshop provides an easy way to do this. It’s called Threshold.

I opened the image of the man and cropped it down to just the area around the face. Before I applied Threshold, I wanted to remove some of the extraneous background. The threshold function will eliminate a great many details, so it’s OK to do a rough job of isolating the subject. Besides, if we’re going for a stenciled look anyway, edge details are not too significant. Here’s what I had:

The magic “Background Eraser” tool took care of most of the isolation for me. It’s an underused tool, but it’s so useful. After isolating the subject from the background, I added a threshold adjustment layer.

The threshold adjustment turns the image into just black and white pixels. No shades of gray, no nuance, just black and white. The slider lets you determine the threshold (hence the name) at which tones are converted to black or white. Play with the slider to see what I mean.

After settling on a good level of black and white detail, I opened the Channels palette, and copied one of the channels into a new one (as the image is black and white, it doesn’t make any difference whether you choose the R, G, or B channel to duplicate).

I didn’t really like the hard-edged bottom, so I painted a few small edits in this new channel. I then inverted the colors, swapping black and white. The end result was this:

We’re almost done with the stencil preparation. I went back to the layers palette, and added a new layer filled with plain white. I went back to the channels palette and loaded the new channel as a selection. That made it so that I had a selection of the stencil, where all the pixels were white. I dragged that selection into my background (wood fence) image:

Well, as graffiti goes, that’s pretty horrible. Lets make it a little (or a lot) more believable. First off, I went into blending options and straight to the bottom of the dialog box, where it says “Blend If:”. I moved the white point slider for “This Layer” down a notch, from 255 to 254. Since all the pixels on this layer are 255/255/255 white, I only have to hide that one value to make the whole thing go blank.

Then I went into gradient overlay and added a gradient. I like to use gradients, rather than single color overlays. Nothing in real world imagery is truly one color, so nothing in my fakery should be either. The important step, then, is to set the blend mode of this gradient overlay to “Multiply”. As you can see here, that lets the background wood texture show through.

Much better.

At this point, we’ll want to make the paint look a little more stenciled. There are two things I like to do to help create that effect: paint drips and overspray.

Paint drips are just the excess bits of paint that dribble down off the bottom edges of the painted area. These can be painted on directly, or you can use some vector art or custom shapes to do the trick. I tend to paint it on, because it’s quick, and at low resolution it’s more about the impression than about the details. If this were a high res piece, intended for print, I’d probably fire off a few more credits at iStockphoto and get one of the high quality paint drip vectors there.

The other effect I like to add is overspray. This is the spray paint that hits the wall outside the far edge of the stencil. You can see the effect in a real world photo here:

And a close up of what I’m talking about:

Creating this effect in our Photoshop document is actually identical to how it’s created in the real world; we’ll make a stencil (mask) and “accidentally” paint outside it. First the stencil. I used the shape tool to make a rough rectangle around our face. I then rasterized the shape, and roughed it up some using the Liquify filter, the Blur tool, and the Smudge tool. The areas where the edge of the mask are blurry will result in blurry edges to our overspray, similar to the effect of a stencil not placed immediately up against the surface being painted on.

I made a selection of that mask, inverted it and selected a rough brush. Make sure you’re painting on your face layer, as that has the layer effects. When I paint overspray, I try to build up the corners, to help indicate where the edges of the stencil would have been. It’s easy to go overboard with this technique, so experiment to find what works.

Here are the results of the detail roughing. Yeah, I blurred part of the face as well. I think it makes it look a little more stenciled.

One final effect I like to add is a little dimensionality, by having the paint match the contours of the fence beneath it. To do this, I hid all of the layers except the fence, then went over to my channels palette. I picked the channel that had the greatest contrast between the wood surface and the black spaces between slats. For my image, that appeared to be the red channel, though that could be different for you if you used a different base image. I duplicated this channel, then gave that new channel a levels adjustment to leave me with just the black spaces between the slats (a little of the wood texture is fine as well). Invert the channel, and make a selection of it.

With the selection still active, add in a Solid Color adjustment layer, filled with white. The selection automatically becomes the layer mask. Unhide the fence and face layers so you can see what’s happening here. With our new white masked layer selected, use the arrow keys to move the white pixels over to the left. I only had to nudge it a few pixels; depending on the resolution of your image, your mileage may vary. Set this white layer’s blend mode to “Overlay”, and reduce the opacity of the layer to about 20 or 30%. You should see that the painted face now has some highlights where the wood slats round over. Now here’s the cool trick: in the layers palette, make a selection from the face layer’s pixels, invert the selection, and in the layer mask for the overlay layer, make that selection black. That will prevent the overlay from lightening the “unpainted” wood.

That’s it for this tutorial. Add a comment here and let us see how you used these techniques to turn an average Joe into a socialist icon. ¡Viva La Revolución!

Final Che Guevara Style

Click the image for a larger view of the finished piece.

Strobist Assignment

Filed under: Commercial
3:33 pm on Saturday, March 1, 2008

I just shot the Strobist assignment (5.2: Double Duty Light). The idea was to compose a shot using just one light, off-camera of course. After some false starts, here’s what I came up with.

Strobist 5.2

The key light (OK, only light) was a Canon 430 EX. It was off to camera left, placed further back of the subject, sort of between the subject and the back wall of the sweep. That sweep, by the way, is a $4.99 piece of gold paper I picked up at Aaron Brothers. I’ve had it for years, and use it all the time. I also have one in silver. They’re really handy.

I put a yellow gel on the background half of the speedlight. That allowed the light hitting the back of the sweep to have a little extra warmth, and the light hitting the subject was allowed to stay white. A mirror placed camera right bounced some of that white light back onto the subject. That’s what’s illuminating the standing quarter.

A piece of foam core to camera right helped fill in some of the background shadows.

Here’s a diagram showing the setup:
Strobist 5.2 Setup Diagram

If you want to go the easy route to lighting a scene with a single strobe, you can create a light tent or reflector box and fire away. You’ll get a flat even lighting all around the subject. Sometimes that may be exactly what you’re looking for. For this assignment, however, I didn’t want to do that. I wanted instead to create a scene that had the look of multiple lights. One way to do that was to create harsh reflections. I figured that would look more like a second light source, and less like a reflector. Mirrors do a great job of reflecting the light without any diffusion or light loss (if they didn’t do that, they wouldn’t be very useful additions to our bathrooms), so that’s what I used at camera right.

I’ve been looking through the Strobist Flickr pool, and there are some great examples of double/triple/quadruple lighting in there. Nice work, folks.